Trying to select a restaurant in Las Vegas is a little like trying to buy a dress in New York City. There are so many to choose from that it can be more than a little overwhelming.

Well-known chefs like Batali, Emeril, Charlie Trotter, Michael Mina, and Wolfgang Puck have hit the strip in a big way. Charlie Palmer, owner of restaurants in Las Vegas as well as New York City, Sonoma, Costa Mesa, Washington, DC and Reno may not be as famous as some of these guys, but he’s every bit as talented.

On a recent trip to Las Vegas, I was treated to a wonderful dinner at Charlie Palmer Steak, located in the Four Seasons Hotel, one of three such restaurants in the country. I had been to Palmer’s flagship Auerole, in NYC, a decade ago, and still have vivid memories of that outstanding evening, so I was really looking forward to trying his newer concept.

I was not disappointed. The service, the meat, the sides, the wine, were all what one expects of a restaurant of this caliber. But unfortunately, not all such restaurants deliver what they promise, so this was a very pleasant discovery.

We started with tuna carpaccio, which was as pretty to look at as it was to eat.

Even the bread basket was exceptional. We all fought over the cornbread, which was easily the best I had ever had.

All of the steaks, from the strip to the rib-eye were perfectly prepared, tender and flavorful. The side dishes were all tasty, and different than the typical steak house offerings. We shared broccolini, wild mushrooms with caramelized onions, sauteed spinach (the only predictable dish), roasted carrots, Yukon gold potato puree and brussel sprouts with pancetta.

To attempt dessert at this  point was a feat, but it was worth splurging a bit more to try the Peanut Butter Bar, with ice cream and dark chocolate sauce.

Non-beef eaters can find plenty on the menu to satisfy. The various fish options are artfully prepared. There’s also a gorgeous Kurobuta pork chop and Sonoma chicken on the menu. This is one of those places where it’s hard to go wrong, no matter what you order.

This kind of evening doesn’t come cheaply. But if you’re in Las Vegas, it’s the kind of gamble that pays off handsomely.