I’ve always been a fan of Succotash, but more so since Beth Barden moved the operation to 26th and Holmes a couple of years ago. It still has the funkiness of the original River Market location, but service is better and it’s more spacious. With a larger kitchen, the offerings have expanded to include so many mouthwatering options that I always have trouble deciding what to order. I don’t get there as often as I would like, but I was there twice recently, once for brunch and the other time for lunch, both times trying new items on the menu.
Sunday brunch is always crowded, and since they don’t accept reservations we got there about 9:30 to beat the rush. We had our pick of tables at that hour, but the restaurant was full by the time we left.
My son had the Burrito of Love; a huge pancake masquerading as a tortilla, with eggs and pancake wrapped inside. The pancake was light and fluffy, though the meal was anything but light. My pork hash wasn’t for the faint of heart either. Beautiful pork carnitas were served with their house fries (which could have been more well-done), black beans and pico de gallo, all of which was topped with two fried eggs and salsa verde. It’s as close to Santa Fean food as we get in Kansas City, though in New Mexico, the dish would have been smothered with green chile. I asked for more of the salsa verde to try to achieve that effect and was charged an extra $.75. Not a big deal, I guess, but when I think of those cheap breakfasts in Santa Fe it did give me pause. The good news is that it probably meant that the salsa was homemade and therefore labor intensive. It was a great breakfast, and in my case, lunch and dinner….I had no appetite the rest of the day.
I went back for lunch the following week and, remembering the perfectly roasted pork in my breakfast hash, opted for the Cuban sandwich. It had been griddled inside of soft and chewy baguette, layered with ham, melted swiss, creamy mustard and chunks of pickle, enough for every bite. It had a bit of a kick to it, which I never quite figured out, and was accompanied by those same home fries…but this time I asked for and received them extra crispy. It was as good a Cuban as I’ve had in Kansas City, and I hope it becomes a fixture on Succotash’s menu. It’s hard for me not to get the Cobb salad with succotash and a fried egg on top and buttermilk basil dressing, but this is my go-to lunch for now.
Treat yourself soon.