Woodyard BBQ has been a part of the Kansas City barbecue scene for decades, but until last month I had never ventured over to Merriam to check it out.  It originally made its name and money selling wood–apple, pecan, cherry, hickory–and it’s all piled up outside for sale.  That business was long ago parlayed into a bustling barbecue spot as well.

The space itself is quite charming…and tiny. It’s a small house with two rooms and very limited seating, but there are two patios for outdoor seating. Undoubtedly ideal on a nice day, we were there during a thunderstorm so that was not an option. In fact, the weather forced everyone indoors, encouraging customers to jump on seats as they opened up or to share a table with strangers.

I have a copy of Jane and Michael Stern’s “Five Hundred Things to Eat Before It’s Too Late”, and I’ve always been struck by the fact that Kansas City barbecue isn’t better represented in the book. One of  the only mentions goes to Woodyard’s Burnt End chili. So of course, I had to try it….before it’s too late. It’s a basic beef and bean chili, elevated to cult status by the inclusion of hefty chunks of tender burnt ends right off the smoked brisket. The thick stew also has two kinds of beans, not just the typical pinto.  I’m not a huge chili fan, but this was noteworthy. Personally, I wouldn’t have included it in my 500 top things to eat, but I’m not going to argue with the king and queen of road food. (Rather, I would have listed Oklahoma Joe’s Carolina style pulled pork sandwich.)

The pulled pork was very tender, but boring. It tasted like it had been cooked in an oven, without the usual smokiness. And there were no crisp pieces from what should be a crusty exterior on the pork butt. But, the barbecue sauce was surprisingly good. In fact, I’d go so far as to suggest that it was similar to LC’s. The slaw, however, was just fair.

Ribs can be sold by the slab or rib, so I tried a couple on the side. They were tender and smokey.

How were the fries you ask? Hard to believe, but they don’t serve French fries. I’m sure a reader will chime in here, but I can’t think of another barbecue joint in Kansas City that doesn’t sell fries. In fact, at most restaurants they are definitely a source of pride.

Woodyard isn’t going to win any awards in my book, but I liked the joint. Quaint, quirky and off the beaten path, it’s brimming with character. Definitely worth giving it a go, especially on a rain free and warm day.