Webster House

Written By: Mary Bloch - Mar• 21•13

Webster House’s second floor restaurant is not new. But its visibility has certainly increased since next-door neighbor, the Kauffman Performing Arts Center, opened in the fall of 2011. Originally open only for lunch and Happy Hour, the restaurant now also serves dinner Wednesday-Saturday, brunch on Sunday, and the occasional late night for performance-goers.

Chef Matt Arnold has the kitchen humming at all hours, and I’ve recently enjoyed some great brunches and lunches there. It’s such a beautiful restaurant, and really an ideal place to take out-of-towners. Each dining room is different: the red room is the most formal, if you’re in the kitchen you can watch your meal being made and, if you sit in the library, you can belly up to the bar. Webster House does a brisk private event business as well.

The brunch menu ranges from fried chicken and waffles or biscuits and gravy to smoked salmon hash and a granola parfait. I ordered migas; a mountain of scrambled eggs and black bean puree, layered between crisp corn tortillas and topped with homemade salsa and cilantro crema.

The roasted romaine poblano Caesar was inventive and lively. I always love grilled romaine, but this was elevated to another level by the kick from the poblano pepper.

Chef Matt has spent time in the Southeast, so it’s not surprising to see some Southern specialities on the menu, including fried green tomatoes and shrimp and grits. The latter is served with Burgers Attic country ham, red eye vinaigrette, sautéed mushrooms, roasted red peppers and scallions, and, though rich, was easy to finish because of its manageable size.

If you love French toast, you’re hungry and you have a sweet tooth, you may find the Creme brulee French toast with Brioche, pears and spiced syrup to be calling your name. It was too sweet for me, but if that’s your thing you’ll be in heaven.

At lunch, there’s a fabulous almost- classic Reuben on the menu–thick slices of corned beef with just the right amount of cheese, slaw (not sauerkraut) and thousand island dressing– grilled to perfection. And the original Herbed Garden sandwich from the Crestwood Galleries has made a comeback.

If you’re lucky, Sarah will wait on you. Like all of the servers, she’s very capable and knowledgeable about the menu. But she’s also very cheerful and upbeat, and who wouldn’t want to be around someone like that?

A word to the wise–if you plan on dining at Webster House before or after a performance next door, reserve well in advance. On the nights the PAC is full, so is the restaurant.

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Harvest Kale Salad

Written By: Mary Bloch - Mar• 15•13

Even if you haven’t decided to jump on the kale bandwagon, give this recipe a try. It’s full of nutrients and it tastes great. I’ve made it twice and I learned something each time.

1. It’s best made early in the day, as the flavors need time to meld together before serving.

2. Don’t toss the dressing using your hands. The second time I made this salad, it was for a crowd and it was easier to use my hands to mix all of the ingredients rather than tongs or serving spoons. However, when massaged, although the bitterness of the kale disappears, it also breaks down the leaves to the point where it can appear soggy. Better to toss it lightly rather than giving it the vigorous massage that is so often recommended, otherwise it will look overdressed and be too wilted. The first time I made it, I let the dressing doing the softening as it sat in the refrigerator and that produced a superior result.

I can’t believe I made this salad twice and didn’t take a picture of it either time, but you’ll find one along with the recipe at the link below.

http://www.foxnews.com/recipe/harvest-kale-salad-honey-miso-dressing

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Restaurant etiquette in the age of Twitter

Written By: Mary Bloch - Mar• 10•13

If you missed my story in last week’s Food Section of the Kansas City, here’s the link, or you can read it below. It certainly sparked lots of comments, especially from people in the restaurant community. Who do you think should be running the show, the diner or the restaurant staff/chef?
Dining out, updated: Restaurant service changes with the times
March 5
BY MARY BLOCH
Special to The Star

When it comes to eating out, times have changed.

Veteran restaurant servers used to be able to spot long-married couples because they barely uttered a word to each other during their meal. These days many first-daters also scarcely talk to each other, but for an entirely different reason. Often they are busy texting or scrolling through email on their smartphones.

A more knowledgeable dining public that eats out more often is also taking advantage of technology, using online reservations, food blogs and dining sites that enable them to view restaurant menus before they have stepped through the door and critique their meals across a variety of social media platforms as soon as they leave.

Of course, information technology isn’t the only factor shaping a bold new restaurant world. A more casual culture and a move to less formal dining have also had a dramatic impact on diners’ overall expectations.

Phil Vettel has been a restaurant critic for the Chicago Tribune for 23 years. He recalls a time when restaurateurs would upgrade stemware, dishes, napkins or even the thread count of the tablecloths in hopes of being considered for an additional Michelin star. But he points out the awarding of Michelin stars in the United States is now based only on food quality.

The country’s recent economic downturn forced many well-known chefs to drop their prices by getting rid of multi-course prix-fixe tasting menus and white tablecloths.

“Everyone was doing what they had to do to survive,” says Howard Hanna, chef/owner of the Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange. “But it’s sad to see how far it has gone. There are very few high-end restaurants left. That style of service is practically lost now.”

Hanna has observed a seismic shift away from the formal and traditional in favor of the fun and funky — and sometimes loud.

Vettel insists restaurant service is as professional as it has always been, despite being much less formal. But as diners become more knowledgeable about food and drink, servers also must know the products they are selling inside and out.

Chef innovation — whether the use of a unique, locally sourced ingredient or time-consuming preparation technique such as sous vide — can make a meal distinctive and memorable in a way that it wasn’t a mere decade ago. “The intricacies of the menu, especially in terms of the novel sourcing that chefs do now, have to be drilled into the waiters,” Vettel says.

Meanwhile, sommeliers at the finest restaurants are more a luxury than a staple, pushing those duties to the servers, who must speak fluently about wine and beer, as well as the handcrafted specialty cocktails that have become an integral part of the dining scene.

It’s all about training, Vettel says, and that starts with the chef/owner investing time and effort to make sure waiters do what they must do and know what they must know to create the desired dining experience.

When hiring servers, the Rieger’s general manager, Tony Glamcevski, looks for the ability to react to unexpected situations. He refers to New York City restaurateur Danny Meyer’s book “Setting the Table” as a bible of sorts for waiters, and like Meyer he thinks it is more important to be hospitable than to have good technical skills.

“People go to restaurants for the food,” Glamcevski says, “but they come back for the service and hospitality.”

Service doesn’t necessarily mean the same thing to the 21st-century diner that it once did.

Open kitchens are all the buzz these days. And so are communal tables. Diners are willing to dish out big bucks for a participatory experience.

The Rieger is one of a growing number of Kansas City restaurants that has an open kitchen and a chef’s counter, where diners can take in the ballet between chefs and servers while taking in the food. Blurring the line between kitchen and dining room has also played a role in creating more teamwork among the staff.

“Servers are more respectful of what goes on in the kitchen and how hard it is to produce a quality product in a timely manner,” Hanna says.

At the same time, chefs are more empathetic toward servers, seeing firsthand how they must juggle multiple tables with high-maintenance guests demanding modifications or substitutions to dishes, or so-called special orders, at a higher rate than ever before.

Jenny Vergara, a marketing consultant and the founder of an underground supper club known as Test Kitchen, is concerned that diners are increasingly treating restaurant chefs as personal chefs. “The substitutions, food allergies and laundry list of will-eat, won’t-eat absolutely plagues a restaurant’s kitchen,” she says.

But Vettel argues that consumers are simply exercising control and are less willing to fall in lockstep with whatever the restaurant is pushing. “They want the meal on their own terms,” he says.

And that can make it more stressful for the chef.

Cooking is two parts: technical know-how and the melding of flavors to create a delicious product. “When diners alter a dish with substitutions or changes, it can be disheartening to a chef,” Vergara says.

Meanwhile, the proliferation of food bloggers and online reviewers means that restaurants get more feedback online, perhaps more than they get from diners while they are still seated in the restaurant.

This is frustrating to the restaurant staff because real-time feedback allows a server or chef to correct problems or concerns.

“If a guest doesn’t like something, we want to replace it so we can give them a better experience,” Hanna says.

David Hayden, a local server-extraordinaire who works at the Majestic Steakhouse, authored a book and maintains the Hospitality Formula Network (hospitalityformula.com), observes his guests critiquing every element of the dining experience, from soup to scenery to service.

And there’s simply no longer a break-in period for a new restaurant. Diners are tweeting with the very first dish served, and then it’s a game on the blogosphere to see who can weigh in next.

“People see Gordon Ramsay on TV going into restaurant kitchens and dressing down the chefs, so diners feel empowered to do the same,” Hayden says. “It’s almost as if sophistication is defined by sarcasm and snarkiness.”

Vettel finds that good restaurants empower servers to do whatever is necessary to make the customer happy at that moment, including taking the dish off the bill.

What an amateur online reviewer focuses on can, to say the least, irritate a restaurateur. “I can’t believe that, out of all the things that went into your meal, you write a review based on the lint from the napkin that got on your pants,” Hanna says.

Hayden wonders about motive.

“When someone chooses not to say anything to the manager but will broadcast it to as many people as possible who cannot correct the situation, it makes me question whether they truly wanted the problem resolved more than an opportunity to dispense ‘justice.’”

Vettel doesn’t think the job of a restaurant critic at a local newspaper is likely to become obsolete. “I can convey the nuances of a restaurant in a way that a 140-character tweet can’t,” he points out.

He also is convinced that diners often reserve judgment until a professional critic weighs in. And professional critics will typically wait to write a review of a new restaurant until the initial kinks are ironed out.

Online reviews are often accompanied by photographs of dishes. Or diners sometimes post pictures to their Facebook pages or in an Instagram.

With more diners snapping shots of their meals, the subject of photography in restaurants is increasingly controversial. Some high-end restaurants in New York City have banned photography, while other chefs invite lay photographers to take their pictures in the kitchen where the lighting is better.

Taking photos of each dish might be a bit annoying to nearby diners, but food blogger Vergara says it’s shortsighted for restaurants to ban the practice. “They need to harness the power of social media” she says, “because it drives demand, is great publicity and honors what the chef is doing.”

The use of mobile phones, not for picture-taking but for talking, has sparked an entirely different diatribe. “I don’t ban it at the Rieger,” Hanna declares, “but it’s rude.”

Too often Rieger manager Glamcevski has to wait to take an order until a diner gets off the phone, and he has had to ask a guest to move a phone so he could put down a plate. “We make a joke about it; that if they put away their phone and started talking to each other, he and his companion could have an actual dining experience.”

Restaurateurs do appreciate modern technology when it comes to diners making online reservations through Open Table, a real-time reservation network. But the convenience comes at a cost. Open Table receives $1 per diner from the restaurant for each reservation made through its system (but only 25 cents if booked on the restaurant’s website).

Hanna says it also enables the restaurant to send an email response to every diner that offers feedback on Open Table.

“Even if the comments are positive, it allows us to build a rapport with our customers,” he says.

Contemporary dining dos and don’ts

1. Put that phone away except for when taking a photo of your food. If you absolutely must answer your phone, leave the dining area.

2. Refrain from using a flash in dark restaurants to avoid bothering your fellow diners.

3. Don’t forget that chefs have a vision, and they usually expend considerable time and effort to create each dish. It’s within your right to have it “your way,” but don’t get upset when the flavors don’t marry well. And don’t write an online review complaining about how your special order did not meet your expectations.

4. If you are unhappy with any aspect of your meal, speak up. Tell your server or the manager, and allow the restaurant an opportunity to remedy the problem.

5. Don’t send back your dinner unless it’s not prepared the way you ordered it. If you send it back simply because you don’t like it, the restaurant ends up eating the cost. Keep in mind that a restaurant’s profit margins are razor thin.

6. If the bottle of wine you ordered is not to your liking, it’s inappropriate to send it back. But if it’s not what you ordered or it’s corked, feel free to ask for a replacement.

7. Don’t penalize the server with a reduced tip when you don’t love the meal. That’s the fault of the kitchen, and you can certainly choose not to return.

Mary Bloch, Special to The Star

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Bun Mee in San Francisco

Written By: Mary Bloch - Mar• 04•13

On a visit to Sonoma this summer, we needed a quick bite before getting on the plane in San Francisco. So we wound our way through the city via Highway 1 in hopes of finding a parking place near the restaurant I had picked out for a quick lunch. We hit the jackpot and raced in.

For anyone in Kansas City who is reading this and has been looking for a can’t-miss restaurant to open, I offer you Bun Mee.

Bun Mee is a fast-casual restaurant that bills itself as a Vietnamese sandwich shop. It’s colorful, attractive and the food will knock your socks off. Diners order at a counter and then a server brings your food to the table…if you’re lucky enough to grab one.

The menu is simple. Almost a dozen sandwich fillings are offered, each with different toppings. Or you can have a noodle or rice bowl with many of those same toppings. If you want to play it safe there’s also a Grilled Chicken Salad or “Vietnamese” Caesar. Side salads and fun additions like sweet potato fries and egg rolls round out the selection.

I had the Grilled Kurobata Pork sandwich for a very reasonable $6.50. Layered on top was garlic aioli, shaved onion, pickled carrot & daikon, cucumber, jalapenos, and cilantro. The flavors danced in my mouth with every bite. A variation on that is the Braised Kurobuta pork belly with salted radish relish, shaved onion, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, jalapenos, cilantro. I had opted for the “healthier” version, but my friend offered me a bite of hers and it was definitely worth getting. Amazing what a little fat adds to the equation!

Grilled flank steak with lime pepper aioli, lotus root relish, shaved onion, pickled carrot & daikon, cucumber, jalapenos, cilantro, and crispy shallots was another winner.

And since we had to try something other than a sandwich, and my husband never met a noodle he didn’t like, he ordered the Bun Noodle Bowl. It came with Vermicelli noodle, lettuce, pickled carrots, cucumbers, mint, cilantro, roasted peanuts, and crispy shallots served with a nuoc cham dipping sauce. He added tofu. It was a bit difficult to mix but worth the effort.

Service was fast, and we had no trouble making our plane. Obviously anything would be better than picking up a sandwich at the airport, but this was a fun way to finish a wonderful week of indulging in food and wine.

Okay, all of you entrepreneurs in the country’s most entrepreneurial city, did I get anyone’s attention??!!

Posted in restaurants , fast-casual, noodles, San Francisco, sandwich | No Comments »

Rye

Written By: Mary Bloch - Feb• 25•13

Colby and Megan Garrelts have another hit on their hands. Most Kansas Citians know of Bluestem in Westport, but the Garrelts have branched out…going south to Leawood and changing up the style and cuisine with their new restaurant, Rye. They have taken over a space that had been thrice doomed, but it would appear that the fourth time is a charm.

Rye is all about regional cuisine, employing ingredients from our area and foods we Midwesterners have been comforted by for years. But Chef Colby puts his own creative spin on each dish, making them unique without losing their heritage. Several family recipes grace the menu, having been reinterpreted to match Colby’s sensibilities. Those readers familiar with Husk in Charleston will recognize the concept. Chef Sean Brock was among the first to focus on the regionality of food, which Colby sees as a natural evolution from the farm-to-table concept that has swept the country, and he wanted to be a part of that.

The restaurant itself was crafted with distressed wood, and features a wine storage cabinet that was designed by Megan and constructed by her uncle. There’s a beautiful bar to the right as you enter the restaurant, and an open kitchen highlighted by copper fixtures and subway tiles with a small chef’s counter in the back. In between is a large space with all hard surfaces that is very loud when the restaurant is full. I know restaurants want to create a certain vibe, but when it’s hard to talk to your table mates, I do think it impacts one’s enjoyment of the overall experience. A little baffling might be in order here to tone it down just a bit.

Perhaps the hope is that the food will be good enough that diners will endure the noise. For the most part, I would say that’s true although, like Bluestem, I consider this a special occasion restaurant. Not because it’s fancy or expensive, but rather because it’s not the type of food that you should eat every day. This is hearty and heart-clogging fare, finger-licking good though it may be. Since opening, they have tweaked the menu and now offer salmon prepared simply, but there are not many healthy options other than the salads. The beet salad with arugula and Green Dirt Farm sheep’s milk was a nice way to start, but unless you get a double order it would not be enough to order for your entrée.

Having sampled much of the menu, I have developed my favorites, including the smoked ribs. Stacked like Lincoln logs, they are brushed with homemade barbecue sauce and served with creamed greens and delightful homemade pickles that remind me of the classic pickled cucumber salad of my youth. Fried chicken is clearly the biggest seller as evidenced by seeing at least one order of it on every table as I have wandered to the bathroom or been ushered to my own table. With good reason I might add. I am not a fried chicken lover, and I would guess that it’s been at least 5 years since I’ve had any. But the baskets here are for sharing, so I did try a chicken leg on my initial visit, and I can easily see why it gets so many raves. The skin is crisp and entirely devoid of grease, and the chicken is moist and flavorful.

The mac and cheese was another winner, made even better by our waiter’s suggestion to perk it up with some of the hot sauce that sits on each table. That’s not a combination I would ever have considered, and I was very pleased with the result. In addition to the bottle of XXX hot sauce, there’s a Royal Steak sauce and a BBQ sauce for the taking as well, a gesture that I love and is also employed at Port Fonda.

If you’re ever been to the Garrelts’ Bluestem Lounge, you may recognize the shrimp and grits dish that’s on the menu. Different name, slightly different rendition, same deliciousness.

The hamburger was excellent. It was quite hefty with caramelized onions and mushrooms, and a fresh, soft bun that didn’t overwhelm the burger. It was very flavorful and, despite the fact that I ordered it rare and it came medium with barely a hint of pink, I still enjoyed it, which has to be a reflection of the quality of the meat itself. The burger comes with an order of the cottage fries, which are addictive.

There’s a separate steak menu, running the gamut from rib eye and porterhouse to lamb and pork chops from Arrowhead Meats and, though I haven’t yet ordered from that list, I would bet they are on a par or better than what you’d find at any of the steakhouses in our area.

And then there is that basket of homemade breads–the cornbread muffins melt in your mouth, no butter required.

Of all the dishes I’ve sampled, the only real disappointment was the Brussel sprouts. They were roasted to a proper doneness, but they weren’t particularly exciting or interesting.

The desserts, on the other hand, were awesome. Megan’s talents as a pastry chef shine here. Unlike at Bluestem where each dessert is a work of art, at Rye it’s all about the taste. They look good of course, but it’s the flavors that wow. The Meyer lemon meringue pie is tart and will definitely make your mouth pucker. The Mo Kan Pie is her riff on pecan pie, with an assortment of nuts and a chewy decadent filling. A trip back to one’s childhood comes free with a milk float and assorted cookies.

In addition to evening hours, Rye is open for lunch during the week and brunch on the weekends.

Posted in restaurants , BBQ, burgers, comfort food, fried chicken, Leawood | No Comments »

Pig and Peay

Written By: Mary Bloch - Feb• 17•13

Andy Peay was in town for the Nelson’s inaugural wine event, aptly called ShuttleCork. Peay, along with 5 other sought-after vintners, came from California to pour fantastic wines and mingle with some of Kansas City’s most ardent wine enthusiasts during an evening that culminated in a wine auction.

Pig and Peay dinner--Michael Smith Restaurant But before that, Peay teamed up with Michael Smith to participate in a wine dinner at Michael’s restaurant. The two have known each other for years so it seemed like a natural fit…and it was. Those of us in attendance were treated to a variety of Peay’s outstanding wines, paired with pig. Michael roasted a whole pig and made an entire meal around it.

Here is the menu from the Pig and Peay ‘S’Wine dinner.

Hamachi Crudo & Lardo Crouton
2011 Cep Rosè, Russian River Valley

Sea urchin guacamole
pancetta & potato chips
2010 Estate Chardonnay

Whole Roasted Pig
steamed buns & garnishes
2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir & 2010 Pomarium Pinot Noir

Roasted Wild Boar
house cured guanciale spaetzle & house made boar soppressata Pork with steamed buns and arepas--Michael Smith 2008 ‘La Bruma’ Syrah

Almond Milk Doughnut
chocolate glaze & bacon bits
The Roasterie Coffee

My favorite course was the pork in steamed buns and arepas, with an Asian slaw. The pork was served family-style and those who like it hot could add a spicy chili-garlic sauce to the little sandwiches.

Michael and Nancy Smith host a winemaker dinner every month, and I’ve never been to one that wasn’t great fun. Outstanding wines and food, and if you get a group of your friends together to go with you, what more could you want?

Posted in restaurants, wine , Crossroads, pork | No Comments »

Visit KC story–Restaurants Reimagined

Written By: Mary Bloch - Feb• 10•13

I’m the M.B. at the bottom of the page.

http://visitkc.com/where-to-eat/restaurants-reimagined/index.aspx

Restaurants Reimagined

On the menu: 7 local eateries with charming backstories

The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange

The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange is a former prohibition-era hotel now serving farm-to-table fare.

Then: Opened in 1915 by the son of whiskey distributor Jacob Rieger, the property was known as a “travelers’” hotel, welcoming railroad workers and traveling salesmen.
Now: There’s no longer room at the inn, but visitors will find a hopping restaurant serving farm-to-table fare in the Crossroads Arts District. It also houses Manifesto, a modern speakeasy, in the basement.
Taste: Chef Howard Hanna has a passion for the pig. Any pork dish is sure to be outstanding.
History Connection: Classic cocktails and the original black-and-white tile floor hark back to days gone by, as does the restored mural on the brick exterior. Just as the turn-of-the-century ad for Reiger whiskey suggests, everything inside is “O! So Good.”

The Freight House District

Then: Just north of KC’s iconic Union Station, this 500-foot long historic building was originally constructed in 1887 as house for railcars.
Now: Purchased and renovated in 1995, it is now home to three award-winning restaurants—Lidia’s (by celebrity Italian chef Lidia Bastianich), Grünauer (German and Austrian fare) and Fiorella’s Jack’s Stack Barbecue (one of the city’s most popular).
Taste: A quick trip through this restaurant row will get you a variety of pastas, modern takes on schnitzels and goulash and Flintstone-sized prime ribs of beef. Come hungry.
History Connection: All three venues have retained the original brick walls, dark reclaimed woodwork and 25-foot ceilings designed for the passing of railcars.

Avenues Bistro

The Freight House District is a renovated railcar house that now is the home to three award-winning restaurants.

Then: Occupying prime real estate on a corner of charming Brookside, the building of this neighborhood bistro started life as Sanford Saper Dry Cleaners.
Now: Lauded by Zagat for offering “something for everyone,” this globetrotting menu is complemented by a reasonable and well-conceived wine list.
Taste: “Clean up” at the all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch, featuring decadent favorites like champagne chicken, crab and potato frico and lobster ravioli.
Historic Connection: Look closely during dinner. The dry cleaner’s old drive-thru window is outlined with red brick.

Genessee Royale Bistro

Then: An old Sinclair gas station and towing service in the old KC Stockyards, the city’s economic engine in the late 19^th century.
Now: Forget oil changes and tune-ups, you’ll now find a funky breakfast and lunch eatery, serving straightforward but creative fare.
Taste: Go for “Burgers and Bloodys” on Saturdays, or happy hour on Fridays for tasty small plates not available the rest of the week. (Don’t pass up the shrimp and grits if these little ramekins of goodness are on the menu).
History Connection: Decorated with fun finds from River Market Antique Mall, this bistro’s name is a two-part nod to KC history: its home on Genessee, one of the city’s oldest streets; and the American Royal—the legendary livestock, rodeo and horseshow series that takes place down the street every fall.

Justus Drugstore

Then: A 1950s family drugstore in nearby Smithville, Mo., owned and operated by the chef’s grandparents.
Now: Praised by the likes of TIME and Bon Appetit, Jonathan Justus and Camille Ecklof are prescribing something completely different these days—haute regional cuisine and strictly local ingredients.
Taste: Food & Wine named the Mushroom Soup one of its favorite dishes in the country. Also, the pork is sourced from Paradise Locker Meats just 11 miles down the road, the same purveyor used by top restaurants from Manhattan to San Francisco.
History Connection: The resident barkeep, a botanist by training, concocts his specialties behind the original soda fountain.

Pierpont’s

Webster House is a transformed 19th Century public school that now serves as a fine dining restaurant and antique store.

Then: With a beautiful Beaux-arts design, Union Station opened in 1914 as the second-largest train station in the country. The space Pierpont’s occupies originally housed the women’s smoking room and waiting areas for women and children.
Now: An upscale seafood and steak restaurant in an intimate and elegant setting.
Taste: The all-day lounge menu represents one of the best deals in town, including a 10-oz. KC Strip for $10.
Historic Connection: Since the restaurant is in a converted train station, it’s appropriately named after the granddaddy of the railroad business, John Pierpont Morgan.

Webster House

Then: Built in 1885 as a Kansas City public school, following the Romanesque Revival style—complete with gorgeous stained glass windows.
Now: Class ended in 1932, but now its antiques and regional cuisine are the ones making the grade. Both the renovation and food are a draw for visitors and locals alike.
Taste: Chef Matt Arnold has incorporated his love of Southern cuisine into the menu, with highlights such as pimento cheese spread, shrimp & grits, and Carolina crab cakes.
History Connection: Ask to see the chalkboard. It’s a fun remainder from school days past and still bears the writing of KC’s young schoolchildren.

-M.B. & D.K.

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Coopers Hawk Winery and Restaurant

Written By: Mary Bloch - Feb• 03•13

Cooper’s Hawk Winery and Restaurant is the new kid on the Plaza, taking the space previously occupied by 810 Zone. Fortunately, no remnant of the former tenant remains. CHW executed a total redo and introduced a new concept in the process. Walking into the building, one first encounters a retail store. I was a little surprised by the commercialism, but was later told that the idea is to replicate a Napa winery, complete with tasting room and outlet to buy wine and accessories. The Napa theme isn’t far fetched. I interviewed corporate winemaker Rob Warren last month and he explained that while the wine itself is made in Illinois, most of their grapes are sourced from vineyards on the West coast, as well as some from Michigan. Perhaps Missouri grapes will be added to the lineup at some point?!

Before we had a chance to check out the merchandise, we were greeted by a server offering us a glass of bubbly from her tray. And because it was the first week of operation, staff members were swarming, some in training and others undoubtedly on loan from other CHW operations around the country. While roaming we noted that wine-tastings are available for a small fee, and all 15 varietals of Coopers Hawk wine are available for purchase. There were also a number of pretty cool wine accessories that would have made great stocking stuffers.

The check-in desk for a table is located behind the store, at the base of the steps which lead to the dining room and in front of the bar area. We were led upstairs to our booth, which was in one of many small dining areas, making the cavernous space seem more intimate and quiet than I would have thought possible. I did note that a couple of the rooms were too brightly lit, but we were seated in a room that was more appropriate for evening dining.

My visit had been set up by the CHW public relations firm and we received a complimentary meal. Our server was a college student who loved everything on the menu, making her recommendations a bit suspect, but she was attentive, friendly and well-intentioned.

We started with a bottle of Cabernet/Zinfandel which is described in the menu as being “full-bodied and jammy with aromas of black currant, pepper, and cherry.” Ordering a bottle of red wine triggers somewhat of a production–while our server went to get the bottle, another server brought to our table a huge decanter with a tap for releasing the wine into a glass. After opening the bottle, the server poured the wine over a glass ball which aerates the wine, cools it and releases the bouquet. Looking around the room I noticed one of those decanters on almost every table. Gimmicky? Perhaps, but it was a fun touch.

Word to the wise, many of the apps are for sharing; we ended up with way too much food. The lettuce wraps could have been a full meal on their own, and definitely a good item to share among 3 or 4 people. There were 5 individual tuna tacos to that order, again a fun appetizer to pass around the table.

The menu is huge. It’s one of those “something for everyone” type of menus. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, chicken, pork, beef, pasta and fish specialities fill the pages.

Though it’s probably a throwback to the 90s, I love fish with wasabi mashed potatoes, so I couldn’t resist the grilled salmon with those potatoes and Asian slaw. I like my salmon medium rare and it came to the table just as I requested. Visually, there was too much wasabi butter floating on top of the potatoes; I’d rather not see just how many calories I’m consuming, but the end result made me banish that image and just enjoy them.

My husband had the Angel Hair Neapolitano with Fresh Garlic, Chili Flakes, Rotisserie Roasted Chicken, Broccoli, San Marzano Tomato Sauce, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. For someone who loves pasta as much as he does, he was happy, but it wasn’t exceptional. He did have to ask for Parmesan, but he’s not shy…

I must have had pretzel rolls at 3 or 4 restaurants the week I dined at CHW. They certainly are the “it” bread of the moment. Here, they bring one large round loaf on a cutting board to the table for sharing.

Of course we had to try dessert, so we picked the warm chocolate chip cookie in a skillet that had Reeces peanut butter cups baked in. Naturally it was topped with vanilla ice cream. Not a bad way to finish the meal before we rolled ourselves to the car.

When dining at Coopers Hawk, the word “formulaic” comes to mind, but it works so I guess that’s something. If you’re looking for a nice meal, competent service and some good wine on the Plaza, add this to your list. It’s not a small, cozy independent restaurant but, except for a few restaurants like Classic Cup, you pretty much need to leave the Plaza to have that experience these days.

Posted in restaurants , beef, burgers, fish, pasta, Plaza, pork, salads, sandwiches, winery | No Comments »

Kansas City Star–Healthy Eating

Written By: Mary Bloch - Jan• 27•13

In case you missed my latest in Wednesday’s Food Section…

http://www.kansascity.com/2013/01/22/4019078/recipes-to-get-back-on-the-diet.html

FYI | FOOD

Recipes to get your diet resolutions back on track

Professionals share tips and dishes that will help you make healthy lifestyle changes.

BY MARY BLOCH

Special to The Star

Thinking about throwing in the towel on those New Year’s resolutions to eat healthier?

Don’t trash them just yet.

OK, maybe you haven’t been as diligent in reforming your eating habits as you had hoped since the first of the year, but there are still 11 months left in 2013 to get it going. We asked three local health professionals to share a favorite healthy recipe with The Star.

• Shelly Summar is a registered dietitian and the coordinator of the Weight Management Program at Children’s Mercy Hospital. Summar is also the mother of two teenage daughters.

She shared her recipe for Chicken Tortilla Soup, which is easy to make on a busy night when it seems everyone in the family is headed in different directions. The recipe features the convenience of rotisserie chicken and adds garnishes such as reduced-fat cheese and fat-free sour cream.

• Andrea Hudy’s message to the college athletes she works with at the University of Kansas? Eat fewer carbohydrates, and you can eat more. Hudy is the assistant athletic director for sport performance. She shared a recipe for pizza that replaces a conventional crust with one made of cauliflower.

• Joan O’Keefe is a mother, registered dietitian and the wife of a cardiologist. She offers nutrition counseling sessions for schools, sports teams and professional organizations. For her upcoming book, she created the Flat Belly Salad, a recipe featuring kale. The nutrition-packed leafy green makes a salad that can keep all week in the refrigerator.

SHELLY SUMMAR | Registered dietitian and Weight Management Program coordinator at Children’s Mercy Hospital

Making wholesale changes in the way you eat probably won’t be effective.

Summar’s professional experience has shown that when we’re told to restrict calories or portion size, it’s a difficult task to sustain on a long-term basis. Rather, she gives her clients a couple of manageable and affordable tips to help make changes that turn resolutions into a lifestyle.

For starters, a meal involves more than one food.

“We need to add sides to our meat,” Summar says. “Vegetables and fruits, not just a starch, make the meal more well-rounded. You feel more satisfied with a smaller entree because you’ve filled up on other dishes.”

Summar also recommends cooking with lower fat and lower calorie ingredients, such as light sour cream or skim instead of whole milk. Substituting these products will make a significant difference in your calorie intake.

“It’s fine to use convenience items from the grocery store when making a meal at home,” Summar says.

Buying a rotisserie chicken to add to her tortilla soup will cut down the time it takes to get a meal on the table and increase the odds of cooking for your family rather than stopping at the drive-through window at a fast-food restaurant.

Chicken Tortilla Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1/2 bunch cilantro, rinsed

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 to 1 jalapeño pepper, seeds removed

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 (10-ounce) can diced tomatoes with green chilies

1 1/2 to 2 quarts low-sodium, fat-free chicken broth

2 to 3 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 (8-ounce) can low-sodium tomato sauce

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup water

1 rotisserie chicken breast, shredded

Fresh whole-wheat tortillas, for garnish

6 to 8 tablespoons shredded low-fat cheddar cheese, for garnish

6 to 8 teaspoons fat-free sour cream, for garnish

4 to 6 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

In a food processor or blender, puree cilantro, onion, jalapeño, garlic and diced tomatoes.

In a medium saucepan, bring chicken broth, cumin, salt and tomato sauce to a boil. Lower heat to medium and add blender mixture; simmer for 1 hour.

Dissolve cornstarch in 1/2 cup water and add to the soup. Return soup to a boil then simmer, allowing to thicken, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add shredded chicken 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut whole-wheat tortillas into strips and bake 10 minutes, checking every few minutes to make sure not to burn.

Spoon about 1 cup of soup into a warm bowl and garnish evenly with tortilla strips, cheddar cheese, sour cream and a sprig of cilantro.

Per serving, based on 6: 118 calories (20 percent from fat), 4 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), 18 milligrams cholesterol, 12 grams carbohydrates, 21 grams protein, 461 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

ANDREA HUDY | Assistant athletic director for sport performance at the University of Kansas

Hudy oversees sports strength performance at the Anderson Strength and Conditioning Complex in Lawrence for all sports except football. She was recently named the National College Strength and Conditioning Coach of the Year by the National Strength and Conditioning Association. She is only the second woman to win the award.

While Hudy agrees that portion control is important, for her world-class athletes it’s more about what goes in their mouths, not how much.

Hudy maintains that people who eat high-density minerals, high proteins, less fat and fewer carbohydrates can eat almost as much as they want. The key is to watch your simple sugar intake. Like Shelly Summar, Hudy stresses that this works only if it’s a lifestyle change. Quick diets and fad foods don’t do the trick.

Fortunately for all of us with a sweet tooth, Hudy gives her blessing to dark chocolate. “It’s more bitter, but healthier,” she explains, because it has fewer carbs compared with milk chocolate.

Hudy is also on board with pizza, at least if the crust is made with cauliflower and not flour. She advises not going wild by topping it with mounds of cheese, which ups the carbs and takes it out of the healthy category.

Hudy shared this recipe from KU sport nutritionist Kayli Hrdlicka.

Cauliflower Pizza Crust

Makes 1 (9-inch) crust, or 8 servings

1 large head cauliflower

1 cup shredded reduced-fat mozzarella cheese, plus additional for topping

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

Vegetable toppings of your choice, such as broccoli, mushrooms, tomatoes and olives

Wash cauliflower and remove stems and leaves then chop into chunks. Place cauliflower in a food processor or blender and pulse until the pieces resemble rice. Place riced cauliflower in a microwave-safe bowl, add 1/4 cup water and microwave on high for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring halfway through.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Spray a pizza pan or cookie sheet with nonstick vegetable cooking spray.

In a mixing bowl, combine 1 cup riced cauliflower, cheese and egg. Add oregano, garlic powder and garlic salt and stir. Transfer mixture to the prepared cookie sheet and shape into a 9-inch circle. Bake for 15 minutes until the crust is browned. Remove from the oven and add toppings of your choice. Place under broiler until additional shredded mozzarella cheese is melted, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Per serving: 51 calories (52 percent from fat), 3 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 34 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 215 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.

JOAN O’KEEFE | Registered dietitian

When you’re a dietitian and married to a cardiologist, it’s a fair bet that the family table is a healthy one.

O’Keefe says their eating philosophy is simple: “We eat one protein and two to three colors three times a day,” she says.

O’Keefe points out that the protein can be fish or meat, as long as the meat is lean and not burnt. As for those colors, they should include fruits and vegetables.

Most people think grains are a good choice, but that depends. Whole grains like wild rice, steel-cut oats and barley are fine because they are digested slowly, but wheat is another matter.

“Grains aren’t that good for you. The more quickly they are digested, the faster they get in the bloodstream and raise insulin levels,” she says. “When your sugar level shoots up, it comes crashing down, and then you don’t feel well, so you crave that high again.”

O’Keefe mixes up a huge batch of her Flat Belly Salad at the beginning of the week and then sticks the bowl in the refrigerator, where it improves with age and can last several days, although her kids and husband eat it for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Flat Belly Salad

Makes 4 to 6 servings

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 bunch kale, washed, stems removed

1 head red cabbage, diced (buy pre-cut for convenience)

1 bell pepper, green or red, cut into small chunks

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1 red onion, chopped into small dice

Mix oil and vinegar together. Toss salad with dressing and allow to chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour to allow flavors to blend. The salad will keep in refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Variation: You can add a tablespoon of Dijon mustard, and low-sodium seasonings including lemon-pepper, garlic powder or Mrs. Dash.

Per serving, based on 4: 219 calories (81 percent from fat), 21 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 9 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 12 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

JAMES O’KEEFE | Breakfast

Editor’s note: This excerpt is part of a story about healthy breakfasts from April 8, 2009.

Hectic households are waking up to the new family hour. Breakfast is becoming the main meal for today’s busy families, when schedules don’t allow for a traditional evening supper together.

Now more than ever, breakfast is the most important meal of the day, says James O’Keefe, director of preventive cardiology at the Mid America Heart Institute at St. Luke’s Hospital. With four active children, the O’Keefes have made breakfast around the dinner table family time in their Mission Hills home.

“Our breakfasts aren’t a long, drawn-out process but a way to get our day going, “ he says. “It’s good to have family time and know we’re starting the day in the right way, especially when there are competing schedules after work or school.”

O’Keefe thinks outside the cereal box when it comes to healthy choices. He co-authored “The Forever Young Diet & Lifestyle” (Andrews McMeel; $22.95) with his wife of 25 years, Joan O’Keefe, a registered dietitian.

O’Keefe likes to start the day with a lean protein and two colors — foods such as an egg-white omelet, low-fat plain yogurt with a variety of berries and low-sodium vegetable juice.

The incredible, edible egg, sans yolk, is a healthy source of protein. An egg-white omelet, loaded with veggies and topped with avocado, is both delicious and nutritious, he says.

“There’s a saying that goes: ‘Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner like a pauper, ’ “ he says. “Making healthy choices for breakfast sets the stage for the rest of the day and gets your metabolism and brain in gear.”

James O’Keefe’s Omelet

Makes 1 serving

4 egg whites

2 teaspoons water

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon olive oil

1/4 cup sliced mushrooms

4 tablespoons thinly sliced bell pepper

1 cup whole leaf spinach

Fresh avocado slices, for garnish

In a mixing bowl, beat eggs, water, salt and pepper with a fork about 15 seconds. Heat olive oil in a nonstick 8-inch omelet pan over medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Sauté mushrooms and bell pepper until tender, about 3 minutes. Add spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer ingredients to a separate bowl and set aside.

Pour eggs into pan and stir gently with a wooden spoon, folding the egg mixture over itself and allowing the uncooked egg to run under the cooked egg. Cook about 1 minute. Add veggies and cook 1 minute. To turn omelet out of the pan, hold the pan handle and tilt the edge of the pan down slightly, over the serving plate. Using a rubber spatula, roll omelet out of the pan, starting at the top of the pan. Top with avocado slices. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 128 calories (33 percent from fat), 5 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 6 grams carbohydrates, 16 grams protein, 245 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

Source: To read excerpts of James O’Keefe’s book, go to: www.foreveryoungdiet.com

• Paula Deen’s son Bobby has found ways to tinker with his famous mother’s calorie-laden dishes using low-fat ingredients that don’t sacrifice flavor. Bobby Deen’s cookbook, “From Mama’s Table to Mine: Everybody’s Favorite Comfort Foods at 350 Calories or Less” (Ballantine Books , $22), serves up traditionally fattening foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes, all of which have been approved by a certified nutritionist.

Deen’s book goes on sale Feb. 5. He is scheduled to appear in Kansas City on Feb. 11 at Seasons 52 on the Country Club Plaza. Tickets are $60, which includes dinner and a copy of the book. For reservations, call Seasons 52 at 816-531-0052; for more information go to rainydaybooks.com.

• James and Joan O’Keefe are coming out with their second book, “Let Me Tell You a Story: Real-Life Stories That Will Inspire You to Achieve Health, Happiness, and a Sexy Waist” (Andrews McMeel Publishing; $16.99; release date Feb. 26).

He’s a cardiologist, she’s a registered dietitian, and their first book, “The Forever Young Diet and Lifestyle,” outlines a sensible program combining healthy eating habits and exercise. Their new book highlights real-life stories of individuals who have followed the O’Keefes’ advice about every aspect of their lives, from sleep, diet and exercise to supplements and sex.

The couple strive to help people live “quality minutes,” where health isn’t a limiting factor in what can be accomplished in life.

• Local author Kate Newell found that changing the foods she cooked with dramatically altered her overall health, so she wrote a cookbook detailing how she did it. In “Feeding Our Families: Bringing Back the Made-From-Scratch Family Dinner” (Healthnut Foodie; $24.50), Newell discusses the health and healing benefits of every ingredient she uses in her recipes.

A former junk food junkie, she also writes a blog called Healthnut Foodie (healthnutfoodie.com), in which she shares tips for making her family’s meals exciting yet nourishing.

Read more here: http://www.kansascity.com/2013/01/22/4019078/recipes-to-get-back-on-the-diet.html#storylink=cpy

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Restaurant Week Part 2: Gaslight Grill

Written By: Mary Bloch - Jan• 21•13

I had never been to Gaslight Grill before, so when offered a complimentary preview of its Restaurant Week menu, I was pleased to have the opportunity to visit. It’s located in Leawood, in the space that at one time occupied the south location of Plaza III.

The restaurant is quite large, and consists of a cozy bar, a dining room with soaring ceilings, and a back room where diners can listen to jazz while they enjoy their dinner.

We started with a very nice kale salad with a lemon dressing, goat cheese and sliced almonds, and a grilled asparagus and portobello mushroom salad that was light and flavorful. The other RW appetizer is a hummus trio with pita.

My husband and I aren’t big meat eaters, and though I gather from looking at the regular menu that beef is the restaurant’s specialty, I was glad to see that the Restaurant Week menu has other attractive options.

We shared pan roasted salmon with leek risotto, and roast chicken atop a sweet potato cake with tasso ham gravy. Both entrees came out piping hot, and tasted every bit as good as they looked. Had we wanted meat, the RW menu features filet mignon with potato puree and broccoli.

By this time we were full, but since Restaurant Week meals include dessert, how could we resist? Though we didn’t make it through the beautiful multi-layered carrot cake tower, it wasn’t for lack of interest. The white chocolate cheesecake was also a treat, but part of it went in the doggy box as well.

Our experience was enhanced by the server who waited on us. The GM may have assigned us their best waiter because he wanted to make a good impression; in any event I can’t imagine there is a better server in the house than Marcus. When we return, I will certainly ask to be seated in his section. He was extremely professional, friendly and attentive, without being obsequious.

Many of the restaurants that are part of the RW roster fill up and won’t be able to accommodate diners if they wait too long to make a reservation. But Gaslight Grill can handle almost 400 guests, so don’t hesitate to give them a call. You won’t be disappointed.

Restaurant Week ends January 27. It’s not too late to participate.

Posted in restaurants , Leawood, seafood, Steak | No Comments »

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